Ascent Of The Golden Clough

A short circular walk from Edale along the flank of The Nab on to the edge of Kinder Scout above Grindsbrook Clough.

I'd wanted to make a journey out into the Peak District for sometime but it had taken a few weeks to wrestle myself out from a period of self-created malaise. I have never felt so lost and disconnected both from myself and from the world around me. A few months prior I had walked out of my job, which at one point I had loved and was tied strongly to my sense of self. It was unhealthy to say the least to define yourself by your work but I was proud of my job. I still don't know how I drifted into the sate of mind I have lived in for so long, I guess over a period of years small decisions built upon each other and bad habits became ingrained. 

I've always had tendency to isolate myself and retreat into a haven of day-dreaming. It was easier to say no to people and social situations where I feared I might feel uncomfortable. Since walking out of my job I'd entered into a cocoon of inaction, sleeping to much and not venturing beyond the walls of my home.

Gradually I started to come back to my senses like a swimmer submerged in deep water, rising to the surface.

When I was in my early twenties I became interested in martial arts and especially in the philosophy and spiritual teachings that under-pin them and over the last few months, spending a lot of time looking back, my mind started to return to to that time and to the teachings and principles that I had read about.

When someone feels lost it's natural to seek out direction.

My journey back to myself started with the idea of  'mindfulness', it was something that kept coming to the forefront of my mind throughout the day. For a long time, longer than I would care to examine, I have lived with a paradox of thinking too much about things beyond my control, mainly negative and eventually angry thoughts, while at the same time I'd actively avoid thinking about problems that with a little thought could be tackled and dealt with. 

Mindfulness is a technique used in martial arts and meditation where the practitioner concentrates on what their senses are telling them or on their breathing. A relaxed state of concentration is the best way to put it, I started to listen to the wind, sound of the leaves and birds in the trees while walking to the shops, looking up into the sky and seeing the patterns in the clouds. Gradually I started to feel better, the process of healing has only just started but where I felt lost and adrift, I now feel positive and hopeful.

"Always keep your mind bright and clear as the vast sky,

the highest peak and the deepest ocean,

empty of all limiting thoughts."

Morihei Ueshiba (1882 - 1969)

I have a special fondness for Grindsbrook Booth, usually known as Edale village so it seemed natural that my first walk in the Peak District for a long time should start from there. However, months of inactivity suggested that a shorter walk might be in order and one that stayed on well established footpaths. I caught quite a late train from Sheffield station and after stocking up on water and cake at the wonderful Penny Pot Cafe it was almost one o'clock, although I saved some time by not having to adjust and fuss over my camera equipment because I'd very reluctantly sold it all a month previously.

The weather was crisp and sunny with good visibility and walking through the village the wind carried the pleasant smells of wood and coal fires from the houses. Gone were the milling throngs of people that can be found in the summer season and the village was peaceful and serene. The pub in the centre of the village looked especially welcoming and I could easily imagine a cosy nook beside a roaring open fire.

Just beyond the pub a footpath dips down beside a wall under a canopy of trees and crosses a striking wooden bridge over a stream called Grinds Brook, hence the name of the village. Booth is from an Old Danish word roughly meaning a temporary shelter used by stockmen.

The brook was swollen and fast flowing, the sound of water cascading down through the sheltered little valley was loud. I pause for a few movements and drew in large lungfuls of clean crisp air and savoured the atmosphere. Rich green ferns growing on the banks of the brook contrasted pleasingly with the yellow and tobacco colours of the fallen leaves. The air held an attractive bitter tang from the carpet of leaves that although on the ground, they had not yet lost their vivid autumn colours.

Across the bridge and up the steep opposite bank, beyond a gate, the trees receded and remained contained in the valley that followed the course of the brook. The footpath opened out on to a broad pasture with imposing hills rising up with the high ridge of the edge of Kinder Scout dominating the horizon.

The main footpath made from a series of broad stone pavement blocks followed the brook to the corner of the field and into a copse of tree, eventually leading directly to a formidable ascent up Grinsbrook Clough and up to the open moors of Kinder Scout.

I decided to take a smaller footpath that breaks off in the open field and heads to the right on to the very sleep flanks of The Nab, an outcrop of the main face that makes up the side of Kinder Scout. From The Nab the footpath winds it's way up roughly 300 metres (984 ft) beneath and around Ringing Roger to the moorland on top of Kinder Scout, along a channel called Golden Clough.

The view from Golden Clough looking down into the Vale of Edale, the line of trees that can just be made out follow the course of the Grinds Brook. The hill on the right is Grindslow Knoll, the destination for the walk.

The first few metres up the The Nab had me gasping for breath but after a little while my body grew accustomed to the unfamiliar sensation of exertion. I had set off from home with the expectation of finding peace out in the wilderness but for the duration of the ascent the whole valley was filled with the roar from a mountain rescue helicopter that flew in great circles above my head and not for the first time I regretted being without a camera. I wasn't sure if there was an actual emergency situation or if it was a drill but the helicopter would settle down for a few minutes before resuming it's circular flying pattern. Below Ringing Roger I passed a Mountain Rescue Team and I could see another team higher up in the distance, roughly around the area marked Upper Tor on my map and it was here where the helicopter landed for a considerable period.

Towards Ringing Roger viewed from the top of Golden Clough.

The footpath following the course of Golden Clough eventually reached the top of the escarpment and opened up in to moorland at a point called Nether Tor and I sat down on a stone to catch my breath as the helicopter did one more fly-by before disappearing. The view from my perch was fantastic, although a little hazy. In desperation I decided to take some photos with my ancient mobile phone, not expecting to get much of a result but actually I'm quite pleased with a couple and at least I was able to record something of my walk.

The footpath between Nether Tor and Upper Tor on the edge of Kinder Scout.

The sun was shining as I hauled myself up from my rocky seat, the air had a crisp freshness that felt wonderful and a strong wind was blowing from off the moors that carried a cutting coldness but I soon warmed up once I was on the move again.

The views from the footpath were incredible and I stopped often just to enjoy the panorama that opened out before me, quite often the view was framed by weathered structures of rock.

The view looking down onto Grinds Brook and Grindsbrook Booth in the Vale of Edale with the Hope Valley just visible in the background. The Nab is the heather covered hill on the left that meets the green fields of the Vale.

My route was to take me along the escarpment to where Grindsbrook Clough cuts into Kinder Scout then round to Grindslow Knoll and back down into the village.

The view back along the footpath.

By now I had reached the Hartshorn, the halfway point on the walk and also it's highest point at 604 metres (1,981 ft) and I decided it was well past the time for a coffee and the soft flapjack that I bought earlier but I planned to walk a little further and find a spot out of the biting wind.

Above Grindsbrook Clough with Grindslow Knoll on the right casting a shadow over the landscape.

 A hour and a half had passed since setting off and the light was changing into a late afternoon glow; along the path vestiges of snow remained in areas of shadow. It was pleasing to find the footpath so quiet, there were only a few groups of walkers out and it was quite nice to share it with them, saying hello as we passed each other.

At the point where Grindsbrook Clough emerges out onto Kinder Scout I found a snug little refuge out of the wind and set up camp with views out over the Vale of Edale, slightly obscured by the rolling moorland.

Happiness is ....... a hot drink, a generous slab of cake and a sheltered spot to enjoy them.

Even though I was out of the wind I quickly became chilled, despite the hot coffee and delicious flapjack so I didn't linger too long before packing up and continuing on my way.

Grindslow Knoll in the distance.

It was much colder now and the ground was frozen hard even out of the shade but it was still pleasant to be out in the wide open moor.

Crystalline snow on the footpath up Grindslow Knoll.

I was now in the final section of the walk and there was the feeling in the air that late afternoon would soon turn to early evening and grow dark. There were no other walkers abroad now and I savoured the isolation. I turned and faced into the wind blowing from off the deep recesses of the moor and I felt it wash over me. I felt cleansed and renewed.

The deep moor, vast and mysterious.

The start of the last section of the walk from the top of  Grindslow Knoll back down to the village.

The descent back into the village, down the flank of Grindslow Knoll was very steep and my right knee started to protest so I made sure to take my time and shorten my stride. 

The view back to where the walk started, you can just about make out the diagonal path that leads from the trees following the Grinds Brook to the patch of trees halfway up The Nab on the left.

As the landscape levelled out the footpath merged with others and a few walkers were also making their way back into the village from out in the direction of Broadlee Bank Tor and the Pennine Way.

Heading back into Grindsbrook Booth with the sun low in the sky.

I reached the train station with 15 minutes to wait for the train that would take me back into Sheffield. The route and length of the walk was perfect and covered everything that I love about this area of the Peak District. I look forward to returning and to another adventure.